Hello Everybody in cold Europe!
...but no jealousy, I found the time to write again cause it is POURING down here in South Afrika as well. Not cold, but WET!!
However, what happened the last weeks!?
Well, after granting you some insights of what surrounds me here everyday last time, I can only use words to describe what has happened that last weeks, since pictures could not be taken of this adventure....
The last time I wrote you I was still in St Lucia, a beautiful but touristic coastal town. Not far from there, following the east coast of South Afrika towards Mozambique, is a little town called Sodwana Bay. It is known over here for being one of the 10 most exciting and beautiful diving spots in the world. Therefore, THE PLACE TO BE for me!!!
Getting there was a bit of a challenge since Sicko cant dive cause of ear-problems so he was not too excited to rent a car and spent a lot of money on a diving trip but, as most of you know me - I rented the car, I drove there and I did 2 amazing dives...!! Sometimes its got to be all about me... ;-)
Anyhow, it was worth every discussion I had to go through since the first dive (in 3 years!!!!) was with "ragged tooth sharks"!! Unfortunately, I dont know what they are called in German(maybe I dont even want to know...), but I can tell you that they are BIG and SCARY and AMAZINGLY BEAUTIFUL!!!
Without a cage, without security, without anything but air and a wetsuit we dropped down from the boat in the middle of the ocean to find a reef on about a depth of 10-15 meters. The dive was a bit unusual since the instructions we got were:
"Drop down til you hit the sand, lay flat on you belly, crawl forward using your hands in the sand, move as little as possible, dont stick hands or legs out or make sudden movements when the shark comes really close to you and DO NOT look the shark straight into the eyes! If you manage that, you will be fine!"
Hmmmm, let me think about this...OK!! I do it!!!
I am telling you, it was unbelievable. Those animals are sooooo BIG! And they come so close, they almost touch you with their fins. Fortunately, the sharks at this reef were pregnant females, which means that they do not eat for several months until their babies are born. So, no worries about the shark being hungry. However, we all met a pregnant female before - not to mess with!!!!
So I kept still, stomach flat on the ground and found myself in the middle of 2-3 shark ladies at once, circling over my head.
In that moment, you do not want to think about what "could happen", enjoy the incredible moment you probably wont ever experience again in your life - and pray that you get out of there alive ;-)
But no, seriously, it was not dangerous or unsave for one single moment, at least it didnt feel that way! So, if you ever get the chance: DO IT!!!
The same day we went even further up the coast towards Mozambique, to Kosy Bay. Almost untouched by tourists, the nature and beaches up there are just like the "bacardi-commercial". You remember what I mean, dont you?!
Bacardi feeeeeeeling, its never been so easy, when I dreeeeaaaaaming.......! ;-)
Up there, almost in another country, is where the huge turtles come every year to lay their eggs. We were lucky enough to travel "in season" with the turtles and got to see one HUGE turtle on her way back into the ocean after laying eggs as well as little hashlings (tiny tiny new born turtles) which tried to make their way into the ocean. Unfortunately, only 2 hashlings out of 120 (this is the amount of eggs turtles lay with EACH stop at the beach!) survives.
Really sad to see, since they are so cute at first and so impressive afterwards - a 2,5 meter turtle, you wont believe your eyes if you see one, trust me!!
Taking the rental car back to St Lucia, we decided to make the next stop towards the inner country, away from the coast. In Eshowe, a traditional Zulu-town (all the travelling so far has taken place in Zululand, which is a certain tribe here in Afrika still functioning under the old regime of King Shaka who had 121 wives....Here it is normal to have 3-5 wives, but you have to pay 11 cows to the family of each wife. 11 cows is A LOT of money over here, so you gotta be rich if you want to have the women, just like back home ;-) The Zulus are the ones who do the klik-klak sound when they speak, you know!?)
We stayed there at a beautiful backpackers and I decided to take part in a tour which was called "Zulu healing ceremony".
Unfortunately, I am not aloud to upload the video I made of this event on this computer but PLEASE remind me since it will be something you most probably have never seen before. I, for sure, never saw anything like this in my life before!!
We had to take a 30-minute car ride far out into the moutains where the Sangoma (the woman with the healing spirits) lives. There are just 3 huts made out of mud and sticks and you hear singing and clapping when you get out of the car. When entering the hut, you are FOR SURE, the only white person within the next 150 km and the chance that they never saw white skin before is very high. You bow your head, get on your knees and rob through the hut until you found a place to sit between all the others who came (walked!!!!) there. Mostly grandma's, mothers with their babies and young teenage girls. But also a couple of men were there.
For a long time, they sing together, calling the spirits, praising the Sangoma. The Sangoma looks like....do you remember the monkey of 'the lion king'?! The one who showed Simba the way back to the holy land?! With the stick and all the jewellery, the noises and screaming?! Thats a Sangoma!!! Thats exactly what she looks like and how she acts.
The singing gets louder and stronger and we have to get on our knees again to leave the hut in order to get our feet washed by a lady, outside the hut. Back on your knees (it REALLY hurts by now!!!!) into the hut and thats where the fun part starts - ALCOHOL! Just like we like it, they praise the spirits with lots and lots of alcohol which is first spilled in front of the "altar" so that the spirits are served first and is then passed through the crowd, drinking is a MUST, refusing not an option.
Fortunately, I was always the first one to be served.... ;-)
Also, they use the water that every single person within this hut washed their feet in as a sort of healing water - everyone drinks it (!!!!!) and they take it home to wash themselves with it etc. Lucky me, I was not offered to try it...I dont think I could have done it.
Right afterwards, the spirits take their part of the Sangoma and she starts screaming and moves her body uncontrolably. Several women within the crowd experience the same thing and it does get quite scary with all the loud singing, screaming, uncontrolled movements and alcohol....After a while it gets really quiet and every single person can go up to the Sangoma and ask for good luck, success, a good harvest, a new job, health or whatever else you could think of.
Unfortunately, I could not go since a Sangoma only speaks Zulu, of course.
Well, it was just an experience which is almost impossible to describe. So much power and strong believe in one little hut...It was an honour to be part of this, definitely.
Yes, that is more or less what has happened the last days.
Funny, when I started writing I didnt really know yet what to write about but it seems like there is always more happening then I am aware of ;-)
For the last week we have been hanging out in Ballito, a little coastal surfers-town right before Durban. 300 metres away from the ocean, very tropical, lovely hostel...all great. After the first very exciting weeks, I definitely needed some resting and chilling-time in order to keep enjoying it.
But I am definitely still enjoying it, everyday.
I hope back home is everyone doing ok?!
Would love to hear your stories as well!!
They might seem boring to you compared to mine, but letting me know the ordinary everyday happenings like drowning your kitchen when you try to make some tea or that you just do not get to move enough while you are working and thats why the lights turn off - those stories enterain me right now just as much as my stories might enterain you.
Because your life is just as far away for me as mine is to you at the moment!
Kisses from raining South Afrika!
Lena